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The word "compost" is used by gardeners to denote two quite different substances. The first is a mixture of soil, peat moss and sand or similiar materials used in potting and generally called a potting compost. The second is vegetable waste of all kinds which has been properly rotted down in a heap or pit, often with an activator, forming a blackish-brown crumbling mixture. It is this kind of compost that is dealt with here.
Composting
is the controlled decomposition of organic materials, such as leaves,
grass, and food scraps, by microorganisms (an activator). This may be the droppings from birds such as poultry or, when these are not available, fish meal or a brand name activator. The result of this decomposition
process is compost, a crumbly, earthy-smelling, soil-like material. Yard
trimmings and food scraps make up about 25 percent of the waste U.S. households
generate, so composting can greatly reduce the amount of waste that ends
up in landfills or incinerators. There is all the difference in the world between a rubish heap and a compost heap. A rubish heap is merely a collection of vegetable waste, and may be a breeding ground for pests and diseases, as well as a place where weed seeds are stored but not killed. In a properly made compost heap the temperature will rise to 180 degrees F. It is then that the bacteria break down the more resistant protiens and carbohydrates in the heap. The temperature may remain high for a month and then, as the heap cools, the bacteria complete the task of breaking down the organic material until it is first-rate compost.
It is often easiest to make a bottomless bin of boards or of chicken wire into which the vegetable waste can be collected and raked level. The size of the bin will depend on the size of your garden. For a garden of a 1/4 of an acer it may be 3 ft. by 3 ft.
What
to Put in the Mix These
are some items that can be put in a composting bin. Some food products
should not be included because they can attract pests or compromise
the quality of the compost. This list is not meant to be all inclusive.
Materials
to Include
Fruit
and vegetable
scraps
Egg shells
Coffee grounds
with filters
Tea bags
Fireplace ash
Leaves
Grass
Yard clippings
Vacuum cleaner
lint
Wool and cotton
rags
Sawdust
Nonrecyclable
paperMaterials
to Exclude
Meats
Dairy foods
Fats
Oils (including
peanut butter
and mayonnaise)
Grease
Pet excrement
Fish scraps
Diseased plants
Bones
Compost contains both carbon and nitrogen sources, which can be simplified as browns for carbon (e.g., leaves, straw, woody materials) and greens for nitrogen (e.g., grass and food scraps). Adequate sources of carbon and nitrogen are important for microorganism growth and energy. The ideal ratio is 30 parts brown to 1 part green. Odor and other problems can occur if the ratio or any of the factors discussed below are not in the correct balance.
The decomposition of organic materials in composting involves both physical and chemical processes. During decomposition, organic materials are broken down through the activities and appetites of various invertebrates that will naturally appear in compost, such as mites, millipedes, beetles, sowbugs, earwigs, earthworms, slugs, and snails. These microorganisms need adequate moisture and oxygen to degrade the organic materials in the most efficient manner.
Microbes in the pile create considerable heat and essentially "cook" the compost. Temperatures between 90 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit are common in properly maintained compost piles, but may not reach these levels in backyard compost piles. These high temperatures are necessary for rapid composting as well as for destroying weed seeds, insect larvae, and potentially harmful bacteria. When the compost is finished, it has a crumbly texture throughout the pile.